Reykjavik

Reykjavik- With a population of 293,577 (according to figures calculated December 2004) Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavik, bears around 60% of the county’s population, 200,000 or so people. This is certainly noticeable when you are outside of the city on your tour bus, loving it, just totally chilled out, relaxed, taking it in, watching the passing landscape, talking to people, feeling the bounce of the bus seat, the clean, mechanical breeze of the air condish blowing softly on your face. Just,.. you know, doing it.

When you look out your bus window, there is nobody out there. I was really surprised by this. If you go for a hike in the Immigrant Wilderness in the Sierra Nevadas in California, though you feel you are way out in the middle of nowhere, you are bound to run into someone. There is a special kind of desolation in the interior of Iceland that I have never found in the small towns or nature areas I have been in inside the U.S. I know that has much to do with the fact that I have not been in very many in the U.S., but still.

So yes, Reykjavik is by all means a city. The thing is, even with 60% of the nations population, it is still a small, somewhat quaint, city. It would compare to Portland, Oregon in some distant ways with regards to feel and visual attractiveness, but to Eugene, Oregon, when considering size. Strangely, I am not just using Oregon cities for comparison because I have been living there for the last two years, but also because Oregon has a strangely Scandinavian (Nordic if including Iceland and Finland) quality to it, both in its philosophies and somehow, its feel. I wouldn’t carry the comparison very far past there though.

Reykjavik is more novel, of course, because the people are speaking Icelandic, the closest language to (or really, The language) that the Vikings spoke. Well, I guess it is novel also because I don’t live there. Still, the city is clean, colorful, well designed, certainly aesthetically pleasing and interesting.

One thing I noticed after a short while of being there, was an unusually high number of young mothers pushing strollers around the city. It was not that there were tons of 16 year-old mothers carting dirty babies through the city (though that would have been creepy and kind of cool, somehow), but the average age seemed 18-27. I guess Iceland, and therefore Reykjavik, has been experiencing a population boom.

In fact, while busing around the city (on a city bus, not the plush comfort chariots that tourists ride in) I passed through surprisingly large areas where whole neighborhoods were in mid-construction. Now, there is logic to a high amount of construction being done in summer because there is such a long and cold winter to make it impossible then, but this is not just roadwork and some buildings being put up. This is large neighborhoods, suburbs; Rows and rows of newly built apartments, houses, etc. being quickly constructed. It was eerie, really. I was amazed.

In speaking about this population boom, and Iceland’s economy, I heard two overall different perspectives. What has happened in Iceland is that a few sickeningly wealthy people (bank owners) have begun purchasing banks and industries all over Norden, and particularly in Denmark. This is somewhat funny ironic, or just purely intentional, because Iceland was under Denmark’s imperial net for years (until around the 2nd world war). I heard that they don’t think so much of this in Denmark. Anyhow, the thing is, some people are waiting for a crack and a crash in this booming economic frenzy. There are signs of boom everywhere, rampant spending and debt galore, but can it continue?

So I spoke with a few people who said they were just waiting for the crash, which makes sense to me, while on the other side I heard the argument that this was the beginning of Iceland’s ultimate placement on the map; The new beginning. Progress, presence, development, refinement, all of those creepy words that people like George Bush say when they are talking about tearing huge holes in delicately functioning systems in the hopes of something outrageous. I certainly hope that Iceland just continues to prosper, but I think it would take some slow, patient, well-planned path to do so. Hopefully the growth will slow down and then stabilize, rather than hit a rut.

Regardless of all of this uninformed musing and meandering, Reykjavik is a fantastic city, and I would put it in the “100 Places You Should See Before You Die” category.
I hope these photographs capture some of the city’s beauty and charm.

Bláa lónið-Blue Lagoon

Blue Lagoon- This is a particularly famous spot in Iceland, due to the fact that it is totally frickin awesome.

I must note, I didn’t think much of the fact that I was taking all of my pictures in black and white until I was about to leave. I realized how dumb it was because, of course, one of the greatest features of the lagoon is the intense, light blue color of the water, and it is a one-click process to change color photos into black and white using my computer. This generally won’t affect the photo quality either, so now I have taken more in color. I personally just like the black and white photos over color.

The battery light on my camera actually started blinking when I began photographing, so I attempted to take as many photos in as little time as possible. I took the photos of people swimming until my battery died out and then went into the lagoon myself. I realized my error afterward and then caught the color photos with a lucky, last heave-ho my battery made after sitting in the dressing room for a time thus, the blue-watered photo included. This photo is of a pool outside the lagoon, but of the same color water. I am happy I was able to get this so you can see how nice.

Besides all of this, it was difficult to photograph and focus on my goal of ultimate photo coverage when there was this luring pool of warm, mineral saturated water calling me into it.

It was fantastic, the water, a nice 104 degrees F., and though it was sunny, a cool breeze made it more tolerable. I just waded slowly around each corner of the lagoon until I found a nice slope I could sit on with my waist down submerged in the spring. For whatever reason, sitting there I had the sudden, overwhelming realization of how bizarre it was that I was in Iceland. I never thought much of it until this point. I never imagined I would go to Iceland. Pretty wild.

I had met no Swedes (I study Swedish language) so far on my travels and was suddenly surrounded by the glorious sounds of the Swedish language. Thinking I was pretty cool, I spotted a mother and her sons close by and said in Swedish, “so, you guys are from Sweden?” I probably had one of those, “oh yeah, check me out” looks on my face.

“We’re actually from Norway,” she said back in Norwegian. We had a cute, short-lived conversation until I had to ask her to repeat herself too many times because I got caught up by some of her Norwegian words, and we both knew we could speak English and move along at a much nicer pace.

Her husband came over and we all three spoke for a while. They asked me questions about my future plans, reasons for speaking Swedish, being in Iceland, etc. (the worst questions to ask me) and I spoke at length about my opinions regarding the U.S. and its current political and social situation. They listened politely until they realized I wasn’t going tell them I think the world should be forced to embrace some watered-out, neo-fundamentalist, evangelical, North American version of Christianity and agree to support the U.S. in whatever evidence-absent, financially driven, conspiracy-based, hopefully Armageddon-inducing war on “terror,” our unwise and hopelessly incompetent, small minded, ape-like president stutters for support for while attempting, nervously, to discern the babble someone with a lot more verbal richness and personal gain at stake, is whispering into his ear through his head set.

They then unloaded some of their problems they had with the U.S. onto me in a quick fit, but, bored with being all serious and concerned (everyone does, I need to calm down) and clearly happy to have met such a strange bird in a strange place, they said goodbye politely and left.

Anyhow, Iceland is famous for its harnessing of volcanic energy through the use of geothermal power-plants. I wont pretend to know tons about it, but they dig deep boreholes into the ground and channel the boiling water up into the power plant, which utilizes both the boiling water itself, and the steam it produces to perpetuate the process of pumping the hot water, and the resultant freshwater, to outlying locations. I went to the famous Nesjavellir Geothermal power plant, which I was going to include a whole entry on, but did not photograph enough of. The funding was given from a number of different countries and Japanese engineers helped produce it. The location is stunning, and the machinery impressive. I recommend having a look online, where you will likely find a good description of the process.

Hallgrímskirkja

Hallgrímskirkja- Atop Skolavordustigur (a main street in downtown Reykjavik) is Hallgrímskirkja. This was a really great spot because it provides a fine view of the city, but it also allowed to me to work on my “art photography” skills. The lighting inside was wonderful and I enjoyed myself trying to get really deep into the “art photography” universe. I didn’t make it that far in, but I like the photos I took anyhow. I lay the photos out here as a walk up to, into, and then out of, the church.

Though I find no deep peace or divine awe in the presence of large structures built to attempt producing just such feelings in the religious faithful, it was a nice interior, simple and open, with a few less tourists than many spots. I beat them to it on this day. As you can see in the last photo, they were gathering outside to breathe the life out of the surrounding trees and innocent bystanders. For a moment, I thought I might be one of them, but then I realized I have a few years left before I am jilted into their world. I feel it coming on quickly though. I feel afraid.

Geysir

Geysir- According to many dependable online sources, Iceland is one of the most volcanically active locations on the globe. They have had 30 eruptions since their settlement around the 9th century post Jesus times, and have around 200 post-glacial volcanoes. This is immediately obvious when you take the first roadway from the Keflavik airport. Volcanic fields stretch from either side of the road, giving you the sensation that you landed on mars, or the moon.

Of course all of my tourist adventures were also centered very much around the sight of different volcanic locations, given their strange beauty and peculiarity. In the middle ages many in the Catholic Church believed Iceland’s largest volcano, Hekla, to be the house of the unholy, or Hell, if you will. You Catholic Church, so silly sometimes!! I don’t believe many people were thinking they were taking a tour to visit the entrance to Hell, given that most people know the entrance is way down, down below the earth somewhere, but that doesn’t reduce the natural beauty and strangeness of volcanoes or volcanically produced landscapes.

One location we stopped at was Geysir, a hole in the ground where volcanically heated water spouts up high into the air every five or so minutes. The boiling water is channeled up towards the surface and begins to boil on its way. This water naturally turns into steam and since it is in a confined passageway, and steam takes up more volume than water, it produces an “explosion” of sorts, pushing the water above it out of the opening in the earth. Very cool.

Gullfoss

Gullfoss- This is a beautiful spot you will see in every tour book of Iceland (Well, all of these places could be seen, likely through more expert, appealing photographs, in any guidebook. But these babies are mine, testament to my having stepped foot upon Icelandic soil). Nevertheless, I had to include these photos because this spot was majestic and beautiful and I loved it.

I was told that there were plans to sell the location and convert it into a hydroelectric power plant. In protest, a local women chained herself to a rock (I think it was a rock? Maybe a tree) resulting in the cancellation of the sale, and the preservation of this sight, giving me the opportunity to see it. I don’t think she realized how much joy she was giving one very important American man-boy in doing what she did. Wow. There is a plaque commemorating her deed on the sight.

Eat your heart out U.S. environmentalists, protesters and monkey wrench gangers. A protest that actually eluded the slippery, conniving, slight-of-hand work corporate monsters, lawyers and politicians in the U.S use to get almost anything they want. I was moved by this story by any means.
UHHH! Sorry, I slipped up there.

Þingvellir

Þingvellir- (Thingveh-tlir) or “General Assembly.” As described in many of the Icelandic sagas, this was the spot of one of the oldest parliaments in the western world. It was thought to be established around 930 and used until around 1798.

In Iceland around this time, power was distributed among local chiefs called Goðis (Go-thies) who were stationed throughout the island. They were more-or-less landowners who were powerful enough to rally people around them by being their landlord/indebted protector and who made decisions regarding punishment and compensation for crime.

They had a complicated legal system, though it was in some ways more of a systemized attempt to regulate violence and crime through a competition of wit and physical strength. This often manifested itself as blood feuds and more violence. For example, the convicted could challenge the offended to a duel over receiving a proper sentence, so giving his physical prowess legal precedence over punishment and the fact that he just stole or killed a family member or close friend of the offended.

The people would meet here annually at the “Thing” to try and settle such disputes over murder, property, etc. that could not be settled locally. A man called a law speaker would stand in the center of this divide and yell out the laws so everyone could hear it and try and settle their disputes with his lawyer-like guidance. So it was a kind of complicated and process-oriented lawlessness. O.J. Simpson would have done well there with his football induced physical strength and his cunning for “working the system.” Iceland was eventually Christianized around 1000 C.E. and integrated into the fold of the protestant Christian west.

And Finally, an Entry!

I have been in Tampere, Finland now since 1 August following brief travels in Iceland and Sweden. Due to an extended “settling in period” including the discovery of Macintosh-unfriendly web service provisions here in my University living quarters, I wasn’t able to spend very much time online.

Additionally, I was waiting for divine inspiration to write this, but it recently dawned on me there were no gods, daemons or divinities anywhere around here to help me out. Besides, I have no clue how to summon or appease such entities, so sadly, you will have to bear with me and endure what has lately felt like a barely monolingual writing capability.

I wanted to avoid posting lists of daily activities and new friends, as can be luring to write when you are trying to inform others of your travels, but if this degenerates into that, I apologize in advance. Also, I am sorry if my writing at times sounds strained, crass or too personal, as I have tried to start this about 10 times, and will now just “let it ride,” as some people might say at times. Meow!

So, now that I have provided myself with some “disclaimer insurance,” I will try and tell you a little about my trip. Tervetuloa!! (that means welcome in Finnish, which itself is called “suomea”)

Iceland
Iceland is absolutely amazing and mysterious. If any of the “100 Places You Must See Before You Die” books don’t include Iceland, than those ones were certainly written by sadly unreliable, perhaps even brutally depressed or intoxicated authors. Or, they were edited by lethargic, uninterested boofs, who are losing their touch and may even have detrimentally hopeless drug habits.

You could go get fondled in Paris while trying to fulfill some weird, creepy romantic fantasy that has been perpetuated by countless low grade and quality films alike over the years, or you could go to Mexico and live it up for spring break, showing people your pasty boobs or bunzes (with a z). Or, you can go to Iceland and maybe do all of these things while seeing some of the most bizarre and awesome landscapes in the known world.

I have to mention before I go on that I forfeit all official authority, given I am 25 and don’t even have a Bachelor’s degree, making me a wholly unreliable source of information. In addition, I haven’t traveled all that much, giving me little room for comparison. I do know that with the combination of its far northern location on the globe at 65’00 N 18’00 W and its volcanic, geographical characteristics, there is really nowhere else on the earth quite like Iceland.

On my trip I didn’t experience youth-reinvigorating romance or show my bunzes (with a z) to anyone in Iceland. I didn’t even experience a morsel of the wild nightlife that many sources mention and which one can catch a however hyped-up glimpse of in the novel based film “101 Reykjavik.” (Recommended if you would like to catch a view of modern Reykjavik.)

One thing I did do was wake early each morning and walk around alone photographing everything I could. I even spent one full day hopping on and off a tour bus with a crowd of dream-team-tourists, none of which I became acquainted with due to their painfully sterile, mood threatening dullness. I got my best photos on this tour, however.

Though tours can dry out the soul, it is highly recommended to take such a tour in Iceland, as you can see a lot of it in a short time. These tours can also be a cost effective way to see Iceland, which is unbelievably expensive. Even a youth hostel will put you on or around $100/night, unless booked well in advance. Food is also outrageously expensive. Of course room prices vary by season, but I would say going in summer is the best time, unless you would have the luck to stay there and experience a full seasonal cycle, which would be great.

I lucked out and had the fortune to stay with an incredibly hospitable and accommodating family (Thank you Stina, Bini and sons, And Abby for the reference). Sadly, due to the limited time we could spend together, I did not get around to photographing them and so cannot show them here. Not only did they make my stay surprisingly comfortable, (and more affordable), but I realized there is no better way to get a quick, genuine and detailed perspective of life in a different country than to stay with “the natives,” even for a short stay. We didn’t have tons of time to get to know each other, but we had dinner, great conversations and stayed up late listening to music pretty much each night.

Will add more later, including photos